The Art of Eating Cookbook: Essential Recipes from the First 25 Years

The Art of Eating Cookbook: Essential Recipes from the First 25 Years

Edward Behr

Language: English

Pages: 204

ISBN: 0520270290

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub

From his first newsletter, issued in 1986, through today’s beautiful full-color magazine, Edward Behr has offered companionship and creativity to avid culinary enthusiasts, including some of America’s most famous chefs. This book collects the best recipes of the magazine’s past twenty-five years—from classic appetizer and vegetable side dishes to meat entrees and desserts. Each section or recipe is introduced with a note on its relevant cultural history or the particular technique it uses, revealing how competing French and Italian cultural influences have shaped contemporary American cuisine.

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and deliciously of themselves, as chefs commonly still do. I especially appreciate dishes built on just two or a few highly successful complements. Yet for all that I praise simplicity, certain recipes I’ve included — for charcuterie in particular — are elaborate records of how things “ought” to be made. That’s the point: whether through simplicity or extra effort, to show just how good food can taste at its very best. I N T ROD U CT I ON 3 THREE NOTES TO THE COOK Tasting | Apart from a few

tarragon leaves already in one. Arrange the cod filets in the dish, tuck- 4 teaspoons coarsely chopped fresh ing the thin tails under. Lubricate the fish with a thin hyssop leaves stream of olive oil and season it lightly with salt. Bake salt and black pepper until the point of a knife shows that the fish at its thickest point is no longer translucent, roughly 10 minutes 2 pounds (1 kg) filets of cod or haddock or another white-fleshed fish 1 cup (enough to fill a 250-ml measure) slightly

bread and fold it around them so they won’t roll off. ANCHOYADE Anchovy Spread this variable provençal mixture for toasted or grilled slices of bread differs from the Piedmontese bagna cauda used for dipping raw vegetables — a sauce now common in Provence — mainly in being thicker and uncooked. Anchoyade can be made thicker still with many more anchovies, and sometimes it includes a little vinegar. I like parsley, which is often omitted, and I prefer the texture that comes from reducing the

finer-textured muscles are reduced to a paste that binds the chunks and filaments of the darker, more fibrous cuts. The underlying proportions, whether you start with half a pig or not, are two-thirds lean to one-third fat. Use a cut from the shoulder that combines different colors and textures of lean. A real butcher shop with a friendly butcher is a big help; ask for the fat trimmed from the piece you’re buying as well as additional fat trimmings to make up the needed weight. You don’t need the

exact ratio, as long as there are 13 grams of salt per kilo of meat and fat, exclusive of CH A RC U T E R I E bone (that’s just under 1 teaspoon per pound, or 1.3 percent salt). The bones give more flavor, although they can be hard to come by, so here James calls for spareribs (reckoning, when calculating salt, that they contain 50 percent bone). If you have any extra pork bones, use those, too. The method is simple. The fat, cut into small pieces, goes into the bottom of the pot, the bones are

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