How to Use, Adapt, and Design Sewing Patterns: From store-bought patterns to drafting your own: a complete guide to fashion sewing with confidence
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
An accomplished fashion designer shows women who make their own garments how to improve on store-bought sewing patterns by adjusting the clothing item's length and other details to reflect personal taste and create a custom fit. The book's opening chapters present an illustrated guide to the tools, equipment, and fabrics needed for making garments, while also serving as a miniature textbook to teach basic sewing techniques. Chapters that follow offer detailed instruction in adapting and altering a store-bought pattern to suit individual tastes. Alterations include adding flare, and modifying the shapes of bodices, arm holes, neck lines, sleeves, and skirts. The book's concluding chapters instruct on designing one's own patterns from scratch. Author Lee Hollahan demonstrates to her readers that once they understand how to adapt a store-bought pattern, they are well on their way to custom designing their own wardrobe. More than 500 instructive illustrations.
fur Specially produced fabrics that imitate expensive animal fur. Because of the expertise in constructing these fabrics, many are difficult to distinguish from the “real thing,” at least at first glance. Their value lies in that they offer a viable alternative to real fur. Constructing jackets and coats of faux fur requires special sewing techniques. Faux suede A synthetic fabric, this is washable, durable, and ideal for jackets and tailored blazers. Since this fabric is an imitation of genuine
page 66. The second method is to buy a ready-made commercial pattern block from a store. You will learn about making your first toile—a fabric prototype of the garment you are making— and assessing and altering its fit (see page 68). Once the blocks have been perfected, you’re ready for the more creative practice of designing your own garments. For this you need to understand design analysis, looking closely at the initial design sketch and interpreting its construction details into a clear
with no shoulder seam. To create this, first trace the armhole side of the yoke. Then, excluding the dart, move the tracing paper to the neck side of the dart and trace the rest of the yoke. p a t t e r n s 11 Move the front yoke piece to join the back yoke piece so that the shoulder seams touch, and continue tracing. When the whole pattern piece is complete, add the seam allowance and cut it out. Cut one pattern piece at a time, and check all the pattern pieces that go together to ensure that
blocks. A B C D Fold line Grain line • 8in (20cm) E F G Grain line • 8in (20cm) H I J K L M N O Grain line • 8in (20cm) P Q R 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 120 T h e 1 2 p a t t e r n 3 4 b l o c k s 5 6 7 8 A B -9 10 11 Back bodice Front bodice -- 12 13 14 15 Back skirt Front skirt - 16 17 18 Sleeve C D E Scale: 1 square = 1 square inch F G H I Grain line J K Grain line 8in (20cm) L M N O P Q
wrong sides together. Pin at the waist and tuck in the darts, and then baste. 2 Construct the skirt and baste to the seam allowance at the waist of the bodice. Stitch in place, sewing just inside the seam line. 3 Depending on the style of neckline, the lining may be machine sewed directly to the neck or to a facing. When the neckline is complete, attach the bodice lining to the dress at the armhole by basting within the seam allowance. 4 Tuck under the seam allowance at the waist and pin over